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From a Chef's Perspective

From a Chef’s Perspective: The oysters are coming!!

July 30, 2015

With oysterfest just 2 days away I couldn’t help but reflect on the wonder of those delicious bivalves. Sometimes you go your whole life eating something and don’t even stop to think about it, how it got to you, or what makes it so, so good. If you haven’t given oysters a chance, I really can’t blame you. They are so weird, so mysterious, and you don’t see them growing on a sprawling farm field or moseying around with the cows and chickens. But, what you should know is that their appearance is way more odd than their actual flavor, and you don’t even have to chew them- so really we’re talking about giving something a chance that’ll only take a second. Chances are if you already enjoy seafood or swimming in the ocean, you will probably be into it.

The first thing you should know is that oysters are actually quite good for you!

Before you have the chance to take this statement too far, your wallet will probably stop you. But when you have the opportunity to indulge, you can do so without feeling any guilt. Oysters are loaded with zinc, which is a great energy booster and mood enhancer. Dr. Denise Skonberg, Associate Professor at the University of Maine’s School of Food and Agriculture has even deemed them a healthy choice:

“…I consider them a powerhouse of micronutrients, including zinc, iron, and vitamin B12. They are definitely not high in calories; a 3 ounce serving of raw Eastern oysters has only about 45 calories. That amount has about a week’s worth of the daily zinc requirement and about 5 days worth of the B12 requirement for adults. Oysters are also an excellent source of the very bioavailable heme iron.”

The oyster less traveled is the best oyster…

Living on Long Island is great for oyster lovers. Not only are there several oyster farmers hauling in loads of fresh oysters all the time- but they didn’t have to travel very far to get to us. Experiencing oysters close to where they came from is a luxury I never take for granted, as I can be assured they are fresh and very much alive. An oyster should have little to no aroma- in fact it should smell just faintly of saltwater (like a breeze on the beach but not at high tide). It should never smell strongly or fishy- and if it does just let your bartender know and they will happily replace it for you. They should be served with most of its seawater (“brine”) still pooled in the shell (this is the mark of a talented oyster shucker) on a bed of ice. Let’s talk toppings…

Oyster condiments & sauces…

I tend to go purist-style when eating oysters, but sometimes the shucking was not so successful and there is no brine left in the shell- that’s when I’ll reach for the garnishes:

Lemon slices – Simple bright acidity is good on just about anything- don’t use too much because you won’t taste the oyster at all. A few drops should be plenty.

Cocktail Sauce– Frankly, I don’t touch the stuff. I think it overrides the delicate flavor of raw shellfish. I think this one may still be on the menu because of history & nostalgia, and I can respect that. It is usually a blend of ketchup, horseradish, steak sauce, salt, pepper, tabasco, lemon juice, chili sauce… I mean really there could be anything in there.

Mignonette– Here’s another acidic accompaniment that when used sparingly can be really delicious. Mignonette is a simple condiment of vinegar with minced shallots and cracked pepper. It has acidity, mild sweetness of the shallot, and a little heat from the pepper. This one is my favorite, and makes a great sub-in for missing brine.

Ketchup– If this is served with your oysters you should politely remove it from your plate and pretend it was never there.

Sometimes a restaurant will give you an unusual condiment not on the list of classics- I recommend tasting it with the tip of your spoon before using it on an oyster. They are just too precious for that sort of experiment!

Choosing oysters…

Ordering oysters at a place that has actually named themselves an “Oyster Bar” can be daunting, when they have multiple kinds, places of origin, etc. Truth be told there are only 5 species of edible oysters. Aside from the water they grow in, what makes these bivalves different from each other are the shells.

  • Pacific Oysters (or Japanese Oyster): smaller with wavy casings
  • Kumamoto Oysters: smaller shell, rounder and pale,
  • European Flat Oysters: large, straight shell with fine ridges
  • Atlantic Oysters: teardrop shape, tends to be on the larger side
  • Olympia Oysters: smoother shell with iridescent coloring

The water they grow in will impact the flavor- but that can change from season to season, and even again during that season. I think the best way to choose is to simply go with what was farmed closest to where you will be consuming them. Not only is it a better guarantee of freshness, it is also a more ethical way of eating. (Yes, oysters can have a pretty severe carbon footprint in that sense.)

Pairing oysters…

The majority of the spectrum of sparkling and white & rose wines can pair very well with oysters. Because the primary taste profile of an oyster is salt & minerality you really want to seek something that is refreshing and thirst quenching. My favorite pairings tend to be Pinot Blanc, dry Rose, or Voignier. Avoid anything sweet or excessively fruity and you will have a grand old time. If you are drinking a dry wine with your oysters you may want to ease up on the acidic condiments.

The “bad oyster”…

This is just a hazard of eating oysters, and as an oyster lover myself I have come to accept that one day I will have the bad oyster. There are several things you can do to decrease your chances:

  • – Eat oysters at reputable restaurants with professional kitchen staff that are already well-known for their oysters. (read: probably a little more pricy than usual but hey- it’s your health!) These restaurants will stop at nothing to keep their sterling reputation- which includes being VERY obsessive about food safety.
  • – Smell your oyster before you eat it or put condiments on it. If there is a strong smell- have it swapped out. A faint ocean smell is fine- trust me, you’ll know when it’s bad because it will smell swampy, not briney.
  • – Drink a shot of straight vodka with your oysters. Please drink responsibly and do not operate a motor vehicle after using this method. Also this is not guaranteed nor supported by ANY medical professionals.

Hope to see you all at oysterfest this Saturday, Aug 1, 12-4 PM at our Bridge Lane Tasting Room in Mattituck!

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